Drinks

Mezcal, tequila, pulque, craft beer, natural wine, the cantina system, and where to drink all of it — from 20-peso beers to 300-peso cocktails.

CDMX has one of the better bar scenes in Latin America and a drinks culture that is genuinely its own. The spirits are native, the bar formats are particular to Mexico, and the quality at every price point is higher than most cities. This chapter covers what to drink, where to drink it, and how the system works.

Mezcal — The Education

Mezcal is the category; tequila is the subset. All tequila is mezcal, but not all mezcal is tequila. Tequila must be made from blue agave (Agave tequilana Weber) in designated regions, primarily Jalisco. Mezcal can be made from dozens of agave varieties — espadin, tobala, tepeztate, tobaziche, cupreata, and many more — across a broader geographic area, primarily Oaxaca, Guerrero, Durango, and San Luis Potosí.

The flavour difference is real and significant. Tequila, made from cultivated blue agave and often cooked in industrial ovens, tends toward cleaner, more neutral profiles. Mezcal, often made from wild or semi-wild agave cooked in earthen pits or clay ovens, carries smoke, terroir, and complexity that vary enormously by region, agave variety, and producer. Artisanal and ancestral mezcals — made using traditional tools like stone tahona wheels or wooden mallets — are categorically different from the industrial mezcal that fills the bottom shelf.

What to order when you don’t know where to start: ask for an espadin. It’s the most common agave variety used in mezcal, tends toward approachable smoky-sweet profiles, and gives you a reference point. From there: tobala is nuttier and more complex, tepeztate is wild and herbal, cupreata is earthy and robust.

“You have to go to a cata de mezcal to start appreciating it. I used to hate it too. Now I like it a lot.” — resident on how mezcal converts people

“Para todo mal, mezcal. Para todo bien, también.” — the saying

Sal de gusano — the dark orange powder served alongside mezcal in Oaxacan traditions — is made from dried agave worm larvae, salt, and dried chiles. It tastes salty, earthy, and slightly smoky. You wet your hand, press it into the sal, lick it, then take a sip of mezcal. The worm in the bottle (associated with some mezcal brands) is a marketing affectation, not a tradition — the tradition is the worm larvae in the salt.

Price guide: a shot of decent espadin in a Roma Norte mezcaleria is 120–200 MXN. Rare or wild-harvest agave varieties (tobala, tepeztate) are 200–400 MXN per shot. A bottle of artisanal mezcal from a specialist shop: 500–1,500 MXN. If a mezcal shot costs 60 MXN, it is almost certainly industrial. That is not necessarily wrong, but know what you’re getting.

Tequila

Tequila gets discussed differently inside Mexico than outside it. The bottom shelf here is the same terrible mixto (minimum 51% blue agave, the rest cane spirit) found everywhere. The top shelf is something else: small-batch, additive-free, 100% agave tequilas from highland or valley Jalisco distilleries that taste nothing like what most foreigners associate with the category.

Blanco (or silver): unaged, most agave-forward. Reposado: aged 2–11 months in oak, softer. Añejo: aged 1–3 years, more whisky-adjacent. Extra añejo: over 3 years, can be extraordinary or over-oaked depending on the producer.

What to avoid: any tequila that doesn’t say ‘100% agave’ on the label. The warning about tequilas that are not 100% agave is real — the additives and lower agave content are what produce the worst hangovers.

“There are tequilas that are genuinely dangerous — not 100% agave, full of additives. The label tells you everything you need to know.” — resident on what to avoid

The carajillo is the signature CDMX tequila cocktail: Licor 43 (a Spanish vanilla liqueur) and espresso, poured over ice. It sounds wrong. It tastes right. Every bar serves them and the debate about whose is best never ends.

“It makes an amazing carajillo. Every bar does one but the proportions make all the difference.” — regular on the carajillo

Pulque

The oldest alcoholic drink in Mexico, made by fermenting the fresh sap (aguamiel) of the maguey agave plant. Not distilled — fermented, like beer or wine. Low alcohol (roughly 4–8% ABV). Thick, slightly viscous, mildly sour, faintly yeasty. Acquired taste is accurate. Worth acquiring.

Pulque is deeply Mexican and until recently was losing ground to beer and spirits. The craft pulque revival has brought it back into fashionable bars in Roma and Condesa, but the traditional setting is a pulquería — a bar dedicated to pulque, often with murals, plastic chairs, and no nonsense. Pulquería Insurgentes (on Insurgentes in Roma) and Las Duelistas (near Centro Histórico) are two of the classic venues.

Curado pulque is pulque mixed with fruit or nut flavourings: guava, tamarind, mango, pine nut, celery. Less intimidating than natural pulque for first-timers. Order a curado if the natural version puts you off. The flavoured versions taste closer to a milkshake in some pulquerías.

Fresh pulque is always better. Pulque ferments quickly and continues fermenting after production, so very old or poorly stored pulque can become intensely acidic and unpleasant. A busy pulquería with high turnover serves fresh product. A slow bar with old pulque sitting around does not.

“When I’ve had homemade pulque that’s fermented too long, it’s like drinking something snotty and acidic. More alcohol at the expense of taste. Always look for the source, not just the product.” — resident on pulque quality variation

“Their pulque is awful. There’s a place in Álamos where they taste like a milkshake. Quality varies enormously.” — another resident with a strong pulque opinion

Craft Beer

Mexico’s national beers — Corona, Modelo, Pacifico, Sol, Indio — are light lagers. Good for hot weather, hot food, micheladas. Not particularly interesting as beer. The craft beer scene in CDMX has grown significantly since 2018 and now offers a real alternative.

Morenos tasting room has been specifically mentioned for craft pints at 60 MXN on Monday evenings — an accessible entry point for exploring Mexican craft without spending restaurant prices. The better craft beer bars in Roma and Condesa carry local breweries like Wendlandt (Baja California), Calavera, Insurgente (Tijuana), and a rotating selection of smaller producers.

Bar Oriente in Roma Sur doubles as a craft beer bar alongside its role as a live music venue — consistently mentioned as having a good tap selection.

The michelada deserves its own entry. A Mexican beer cocktail: lager (usually Modelo or Victoria) over ice in a salt-rimmed glass with lime, Worcestershire, Maggi seasoning, and hot sauce. Variations add clamato juice (making it a clamato michelada), chamoy, tamarind, or amaranto. Sounds strange. Works completely. Essential for Sunday morning recovery. Beers at 20 MXN are the base ingredient — this is CDMX’s affordable drinking culture in one format.

“That Michelada with the amaranto — magnificent.” — foodie with specific aesthetic standards

“I’ve had 3 micheladas and I think a couple more will get me to the mental state I need.” — resident, entirely relatable

Natural Wine

Natural wine — made with minimal intervention, no or low sulfites, native yeasts — has a real following in CDMX and several dedicated bars. La Lavanderia in Roma is specifically mentioned as having an outstanding selection of mezcales en garrafón (mezcal served from large jugs, cheaper per shot than bottled) alongside great natural wines and tlayudas. Hugo Wine Bar comes up for wine events. The natural wine bars in Roma Norte are small, usually reservation-heavy on weekends, and worth finding if the category interests you.

The Cantina

The cantina is a Mexican institution. Not a bar — a cantina. The distinction matters. Traditional cantinas serve free food (botanas) with every round of drinks. You order a beer or a mezcal and shortly after, the waiter brings a small plate of chicharrón, guisado, or garnachas. Order another round, another plate arrives. The system is old and still operates in most traditional cantinas.

Traditional cantinas often have a live trio (bolero and son huasteco music) playing in the corner. White tablecloths. Men in guayaberas. The atmosphere is formally relaxed. Not a place where anything is rushed. A very good place to spend a Tuesday afternoon.

“The cantina’s trio is a feature, not a bug. There’s a very popular broken-heart song you will hear at least once in any cantina. You will not know the name. You will hum it for days.” — long-term resident on cantina culture

Cantina Bohemias in Condesa is specifically mentioned. La Polar in Guerrero is one of the city’s legendary traditional cantinas and worth the trip north of Roma if you’re interested in the format in its most intact form.

Bars by Category — Where to Go

The expat circuit — Roma Norte / Juarez

Departamento (v. Álvaro Obregón 154, Roma Norte) is the most-mentioned bar in the entire expat community. A multi-floor space with a rooftop and a club downstairs, bar in the middle. The language exchange event (Discourse) runs there on certain weeknights. Gets crowded on weekends, occasionally chaotic. The social hub for the international community in a way no other venue quite matches.

Bar Oriente (Roma Norte, Colima) — live music, craft beer, relaxed entry. The guestlist culture means if you know someone who knows someone, you can often get on the free list. Mentioned for jazz nights and DJ sets alike.

Supra Rooftop (Roma Norte) — a rooftop terrace. Good for pre-drinks and group sections. Not the cheapest but not Polanco prices either. The view helps.

Mamba Rooftop (Hamburgo 136, third floor, Juarez) — specifically name-dropped for a more relaxed rooftop option closer to the Juarez colonia centre.

Baltra Bar — consistently recommended alongside Departamento as a go-to for evening drinks in the Roma/Juarez area. Lower key than Departamento, decent cocktails.

La Clandestina (Avenida Álvaro Obregón, Roma Norte) — a mezcalería with an excellent selection including mezcales en garrafón, a bar of toppings (miguelito, chili, sal de gusano), and a non-pretentious atmosphere. One of the best value-to-quality mezcal experiences in the neighbourhood.

“Check out Los Insurgentes and La Clandestina. Excellent taste, not expensive, and they have a bar of toppings like miguelito or chili. Proper mezcal done right.” — resident who knows the difference

For a proper mezcal experience

La Lavandería (around the corner from La Clandestina area, Roma Norte) — mezcales served from garrafón (much cheaper per shot than bottled), natural wine selection, tlayudas. The combination is odd and works perfectly.

El Parnita (Roma Norte) — fresa tacos (upscale but not pretentious), great mezcal list, good prices, an actual crowd rather than a performance. Specifically called out as not fancy and not street food — the middle ground done correctly.

“El Parnita. Not fancy, not street food. Good prices and great mezcal. If you go I’ll send you my recommendations.” — resident who clearly has recommendations

Live music and cultural bars

Artemisia Bar (Tonalá 23, Roma Norte) — blues, jazz, 80s, and more. Live music from 10pm. Mentioned repeatedly for the weekly jazz sessions. The kind of bar that’s been quietly doing the same thing for years and doesn’t need to advertise it.

Falling Piano Bar (Roma) — mentioned for late-night sessions and a consistent crowd.

Xamán — a club with a loyal following in the expat and local community. Described as having good sound and a crowd mix that actually dances rather than watches.

Rooftop and view bars

Terraza Cathedral — attached to a hostel in Centro Histórico but operates as a public rooftop bar. Views of the Zocalo area. Worth the trip downtown specifically for a sunset drink.

Terraza Cha Cha Cha — mentioned as having had a moment of popularity. Check current status before making a trip.

Toledo Rooftop — has couches, views, and works for groups. Get there early on weekends before the sections fill.

Polanco and high-end

Polanco has a different bar economy: mandatory tips at tables and bars are standard in some venues, bottles are the norm for clubs, and prices are 40–60% higher than Roma Norte equivalents. Valid if that’s the occasion. Not the neighbourhood for casual drinking culture.

“It’s a nice place, but always empty and the waiters charge mandatory tips both at the bar and at tables, like a club in Polanco. If that’s not what you want, stay in Roma.” — resident with a clear bar philosophy

The Practical Picture

Cover charges: most bars in Roma and Juarez don’t have them Tuesday through Thursday. Friday and Saturday, some venues charge 150–300 MXN entry. Clubs in Polanco charge more. Getting on a guestlist (usually means showing up before midnight, possibly spending a minimum) avoids the charge at many venues.

Card vs cash at bars: most decent bars accept card now. Smaller venues and pulquerías are cash only. Have 500 MXN on you. Contactless at bars fails about as often as everywhere else — have your PIN.

Closing times: bars in Roma and Juarez typically run until 2–3am. Clubs go later. Afters culture — the post-bar continuation somewhere smaller and more chaotic — exists and is entirely your own problem to navigate.

Drug culture exists in CDMX’s nightlife as it does in most major cities. Be aware that what is offered at clubs is not reliably what it claims to be. Multiple accounts exist of substances being adulterated. This is not a uniquely CDMX problem but it is a real one.